Wednesday, September 18, 2019

Skagway

We decided to take a slight detour down to Skagway because there was so much history around the town. There is a National Historic Park that has lots of information about the gold rush, which is the entire reason that Skagway is a town. One of the cheapest ways to make it to Dawson City to try to get a claim was to take a boat into Skagway and then try to forge your way over the white pass.


One of the most interesting facts about the gold rush is that it only lasted one season in Skagway. By the time anyone made it up to Dawson City all of the claims were gone, so not only did no one strike it rich off gold, very few even got the chance to look. Everyone who managed to get rich in the gold rush did so off of money spent by other people there to look. There were lots of hotels, restaurants, brothels and scams. 

While the history was very interesting we were struck by how much tourist traffic they get! The summer population is double the winter population, and while they have one of the highest unemployment rates in Alaska in the winter, they have one of the lowest in the summer.  Skagway's population is estimated to be 1,148 yet they see as many as 8,000 cruise passengers in a single day. While were there, which was not even the peak of tourist season, there were three huge cruises.


The area is also naturally quite stunning. The quick decent from large peaks down to sea levels is spectacular. Overall, it was worth the single day jaunt down to see the town.

Monday, September 16, 2019

Touch of Insanity


We were staying in Yukon for our first night, the day after blowing out our first tire. Whitehorse didn’t have any open tire shops on a Sunday and camping around there was expensive. So we left and found a spot a good distance out of town near a small stream called Marshall Creek. While we were eating breakfast, we were greeted by an older gentleman and his grandson who was visiting on school vacation. His name was John - big John. He lived right down the road to the right. Turns out he has a son in Eugene and saw our Oregon plates and Ducks tire cover. He said we should swing by when we were on our way out of Alaska in a few weeks time. He’d make us some coffee, he said.

Three weeks later, that’s all we had to go on. All I could remember, anyways. We contemplated going through Dawson City, a route that would have made visiting Big John impossible, but I really wanted to take this man up on his offer. By the time we got back to the creek on that Monday, it was already 4:30. A bit late for coffee. As we got closer, we got really nervous, especially Kathleen, who wasn’t actually there for the invite.

Not remembering the directions exactly was tough. We took the first right after we crossed the stream onto a gravel road . After a few hundred meters, we decided this wasn’t leading us where we wanted to go. We took the next right onto a parallel street that seemed to be the old highway. We took that until it was clear that it had been left for nature to reclaim. There was a lady walking down it, so we asked her if she knew John. “No John, just a Fey”. Turns out she was just staying in a B and B on that road, about where we turned around.

0 for 2 and I was beginning to lose hope. I kept telling myself that there was something about an aquatic animal named street. A few kilometers further and we drove by it! Otter Falls Cutoff. It had a gas station, a store and a restaurant. At this point, Kathleen was so unconvinced by my memory that we talked ourselves out of stopping and drove a bit further. When no road was obvious to the right, I eventually decided I want to turn around and take the gravel road that clearly hadn’t looked right.

0 for 3. This was getting insane. It was pretty clear after traveling down this road a little bit that this was not the residence we were looking for. In fact, the road had markers on the side and a wind sock which made us think were were probably driving on a small aircraft landing strip. Glad we didn’t see or hear any aircraft. 

It took all my courage then to decide, I’m going to ask at the gas station. I’ll be talking to a stranger, asking about someone I’d met for 5 minutes, hoping that they might tell me where this person lived. So, I asked the clerk at the store if she knew an older, bigger man named John. Sure enough, she knew him. It was clear that he was well known around there. He lived on a small road out the back of the parking lot to the gas station. 

We followed the young lady’s directions and sure enough, as we pull into the only open spot he comes walking out to greet us. He invited us in, where he offered us coffee. We drank coffee with him and his wife. They even offered us grilled tomatoes and carrots for dinner. We talked for a few hours about Oregon, Yukon, our travels, their family and even ended up on politics by the end. We could not have been happier to have found them and spent an evening with them.

Before leaving, I asked him why he moved to the Yukon as a man in his early twenties. He said he’s not sure. A touch of insanity maybe. That seems like a fitting description for this trip and this idea to go to complete stranger’s house on an invite 3 weeks prior.

Sunday, September 15, 2019

Travel Update 3




We took off to Wrangell - St.Elias National Park from Anchorage on the Glenn Highway. This highway was absolutely stunning. The drive is a little bit tough at first because it can be a little narrow and winding, but the views and lakes are absolutely worth it. 





When you get towards the end near Glennallen, the Wrangell mountains come into view for a spectacular finish to the road as well.

 

After spending some time in Wrangell - St. Elias National Park (see our park post), it was time to start thinking about heading back down to the lower 48 but we were just 80 miles from Valdez and heard that the trip was well worth it. So we took the detour. The trip was truly spectacular. The mountains were so young and jagged that you could still see the sheering of rock from when the plates pushed that piece of rock up out of the ground. There are also a whole variety of different waterfalls. 


 

Just as we were about to get into Valdez, our second tire blew. This time it was the inner tire on the back, passenger side (the previous one was the outer tire of that pair). We took the outer tire off to see the damage and we at first thought that a metal bracket had come loose and punctured the tire. On further inspection, we decided the tire went first and the metal rods took the bracket out.

 

Lucky for us, this happened right across the street from a repair shop. We managed to cross the highway on the bad tire and spent the night in front of the shop. They got us a new spare and were  convinced that the beam that is now cut off did not actually support any of the structure of the vehicle or house. There is a structural cross beam right above where it came off. This was a secondary support that may help reduce the sway of the back panel but doesn’t hold any weight. I guess we’ll see…

With the fear of the possibility of losing our remaining 2 “older” tires (the front ones were newer than the back ones), we decided to head back to Fairbanks, to the place that actually had our tires, and buy more tires. Apparently our size of tire (14R 185C) is super rare, at least this far north. This drive took us up the Richardson Highway, which again had stunning views and several stops and informational signs about the Trans-Alaska pipeline which is used to pump crude oil from Prudhoe Bay all the way to Valdez.

We spent another couple nights at our favorite Walmart and were able to catch the Duck game against Montana at Lavelle’s Taphouse, before starting on our way back. We were once again successful at finding at least one duck. This time the man working at the food cart outside the tap house was wearing a duck hat and watching the game on his tablet. It turns out his son is a senior walk-on cornerback who plays mostly on special teams. It was fun to chat with him a little. 


Duck football at Lavelle's Taphouse

September 15th is officially the day that winter tires are allowed in Alaska so we decided that it was  about time to start heading south. That and we have a wedding to attend in two weeks down in Oregon and we want to see some things on the way south. So next up, we’ll be heading back into Canada.